Mark Twain’s Quaker City Letters

Mark Twain’s book The Innocents Abroad was based on his trip on the Quaker City side-paddle steamship. Twain’s ticket was paid for by the Daily Alta California newspaper in San Francisco, which paid the $1250 ticket price (roughly $25,000 in today’s dollars) in exchange for 50 letters during the journey which would be published in the paper. Some letters were lost in transit, and made up later. In addition to the letters sent to the Alta, Twain also sent several letters to papers in New York. Below is a list of all of the letters sent based on the Quaker City trip, which are the basis for The Innocents Abroad. To read the article, click on the publication date. Locations are those given in the article, even if made up by Twain (i.e. Baldwinsville). The table is sortable and searchable.

For the perspective of other passengers on the Quaker City, see the articles written by Moses S. Beach and Julia Newell.

NewspaperLocationWrittenPublishedSub-Title
Daily Alta CaliforniaNew York1867-03-021867-04-09Grand European Pleasure Trip
Daily Alta CaliforniaNew York1867-04-191867-06-02(See last paragraph)
Daily Alta CaliforniaNew York1867-06-061867-08-18To Whom It May Concern
Daily Alta CaliforniaHorta, Fayal1867-06-191867-08-25A Glimpse of a Strange Land—Out of the World. A Slumbering People—Curious Manners and Customs—Oddities and Curiosities—-The Pains of Donkey Riding—“John Brown” at the Azores.
New York TribuneAt Sea1867-06-231867-07-30Ship Time—Fayal—Love at First Sight—Character of the Islands and the People
Daily Alta CaliforniaGibraltar1867-06-301867-08-27The Flag in a Foreign Land—The Gate of the Mediterranean—Impregnable Gibraltar— Sight Seeing—Geologic and Historic—Portrait of an Old Acquaintance—Other Portraits—Brown Redivivus.
Daily Alta CaliforniaTangier, Africa1867-07-011867-08-31A New Sensation— A Thoroughly Foreign Land—Antiques and Ancients — Some Scraps of History— Tangierian Legal Tenders— Arab Financiering— Dangers of Moorish Wealth.
Daily Alta CaliforniaTangier, Africa1867-07-011867-09-01The Ubiquitous Brown-Rough Arabic Surgery— No Country for Courting—A Good Deal Married—Three Sundays in One Week— Ancient Customs—Moorish Notions of Foreign Countries—But One American Family in Tangier—A Dull Place.
Daily Alta CaliforniaParis1867-07-121867-09-05Twain Enraptured—A City of Palaces—Trees, Sculpture and Paintings—Sharp Contrasts in Paris Sight-Seeing—The Emperor and the Sultan—french Railway Travelling
Daily Alta CaliforniaGenoa, Italy1867-07-161867-09-08The Land of Syrens—Bewitching Beauties— Concerning Cigar Stubs —Genoa Superba — Gossip about Fine Arts—A Blast at Guides—Church Architecture and Decorations—Saintly Relics— Everyday Life in Italy.
Daily Alta CaliforniaMilan, ItalyJuly 18671867-09-15The Wonderful Cathedral at Milan—Saintly Side Shows—Condensed Biography of St. Borromeo—-The Splendors of a Saint’s Sepulchre—Ecclesiastical Extravagance— Some Dry Figures—How the Great Cathedral is Built.
Daily Alta CaliforniaNaples8/2/18671867-09-16Mark Twain in Quarantine
Daily Alta CaliforniaLake of ComoJuly 18671867-09-22Como and Tahoe—The Lady of Lyons a Myth —The Barber of Seville and other Barbarous People—A Specimen of Brown’s French-English—A Brief Essay on Old Paintings—A Yankee Serenade on the Lake of Como.
Daily Alta CaliforniaItalyJuly 18671867-09-26A Financial Problem—ltalian Extravagance— Absorption of Church Property—The Government “Running the Churches”— Splendid Poverty—The Italian Priesthood —Description of a Princely House of Cheek —A Gorgeous Tomb—A Blast at Abuses and Extravagances.
Daily Alta CaliforniaNaples, ItalyAugust 18671867-09-29An Exhumed City — The Dead Alive—How the Pompeiians Lived—Relics of the Past — A Pompeiian Advertisement— From Antiquity to Modern Times—The Old Catastrophe.
Daily Alta CaliforniaNaplesAugust 18671867-10-01Resting at Ischia—Annunciation and the Annunciators — A Town of Beggars —A Shameful Spectacle — The St. Januarius Miracle—Hair-Growing Extraordinary — An Insatiate Hackman—Ascent of Mount Vesuvius.
Daily Alta CaliforniaNaplesAugust 18671867-10-06Bird’s-Eye View of Naples—A Charming Picture—Not so Charming in Detail—Sharp Social Contrasts—Work and Wages—A Wonderful Cave—The Poisoned Grott— A Dogged Experiment.
Daily Alta California, via New York TribuneSepastapol1867-08-261867-10-09A Newspaper Correspondent on his Travels—American Sovereigns Before Russlan Imperialism—A Gracious Reception-Taking Tea with Royalty —Our Countrymen on their Good Behavior.
Daily Alta CaliforniaNaplesAugust 18671867-10-10Ascent of Mount Vesuvius—A Weary Climb— The Summit—Cooking by Volcanic Fires —Vesuvius and Kilauea—The Romance of the Venetian Gondola—Venice by Moonlight—A Fete Upon the Water—The Descent of Mount Vesuvius.
Daily Alta CaliforniaVenice1867-07-291867-10-13The Glorious “City of the Sea”—The Sights of Venice—Relics of Old Tyrannies— The Chamber of the Council of Ten— The Bridge of Sighs—Ruins of Ancient Art—The Legend of St. Mark.
Daily Alta CaliforniaGrecian Archipelago, At Sea1867-08-151867-10-18A Distant Glimpse of Athens—Bitter Disappointment—Blockade Running—A Moonlight Expedition—Sight-Seeing under Difficulties—The Parthenon and its Glories—A Vision of Beauty—Athens by Moonlight—Marauding Yankees—The Anabasis concluded.
Daily Alta CaliforniaConstantinople1867-08-201867-10-20“Living Greece No More”—A Forbidding Picture—Historical Reminiscences—Passing through the Dardanelles—The City of the Golden Horn—Constantinopolitan Nuisances—Street Scenes.
Daily Alta CaliforniaConstantinople1867-08-231867-10-23Nature’s Failures—The Lions of Constantinople; —Oriental Life and Manners—The Wild Dervishes—The Thousand-and-One Colonnade—A famous Mausoleum—Other Curiosities.
Daily Alta CaliforniaConstantinopleAugust 18671867-10-27Turkish Morals—Much Matrimony—Selling Slave Girls—A Model Market Report— Commercial Morals—Honesty at a Discount—Fleecing Strangers—Effects of Evil Example.
Daily Alta CaliforniaConstantinopleAugust 18671867-10-29A Canine Nuisance—An Unhappy Race—Dogs Considered Sanitarily—Constantinopolitan Journalism—Censorship ExtraordinaryHow Newspapers are Managed in Naples —Turkish Cookery—Fastidious Travellers.
Daily Alta CaliforniaSebastopol1867-08-221867-11-01In the Crimea—Hospitable Receptions—lnvitation to see the Emperor—Battered Sebastopol—Surveying the Battlefields— Hunting for Relics—Brown’s Collection of Curiosities.
Daily Alta CaliforniaOdessa, Russia1867-08-221867-11-03In the Far East—Distractions and Distresses of Time—How Odessa Looks—Sounds from Home —No Show Lions—Historical Reminiscences of Odessa—Novel Bathing Costumes—Preparing to Visit the Czar —Fluttering Among the Republicans.
Daily Alta CaliforniaYalta1867-08-271867-11-06In the Crimea—More Souvenirs of California—Diplomatic Preparations—Reception by the Czar—Among the Royalties—Royalty in Plain Clothes—Family Relations—What Republicans Think of in Imperial Presence—The Unterrified Brown—”Twain” Reads his Piece.
Daily Alta CaliforniaYalta, Russia1867-08-271867-11-10Visiting the Grand Duke—Imperial Condeseension—An Obliging Grand Duke—Lunch with Royalty—How it Looks Behind the Seenes—A Troublesome Poet—Majesty Returning Compliments—An Irruption of Inferior Notabilities.
Daily Alta CaliforniaSmyrna1867-09-051867-11-17An Oriental City—Smyrna’s Crown—Ciphering Out the Prophecies—How Ihe Smyrniotes Live— Flirting Under Difficulties—Camels and Camel Trains — A Recollection of the “Arabian Nights.”
Daily Alta CaliforniaSmyrna, Asia Minor1867-09-061867-11-21Relics of Sacred History—Singular Mine— Geological and Ethnological Speculations —Do Oysters Climb Hills?—Smyrniote Millerites—An Asiatic Railway.
Daily Alta CaliforniaEphesus, Asia Minor1867-09-081867-11-24The Ruins of Ephesus — Classic Reminiscences— The Seven Sleepers— How They Took a Long Nap — What They Saw When They Awoke.
Daily Alta CaliforniaSyria1867-09-111867-12-01Pilgrims to the Holy Land—Difficulties of Transportation—A Queer Beggar—Travelling by Guide Book—Camping Out—A Glorious Lay-Out for Pilgrims.
Daily Alta CaliforniaIn Camp near Temnin El Foka, Valley of Lebanon1867-09-121867-12-04Tent Life in Syria—A Wonderful Horse— ln Bible Land—Seeing Bible Pictures—RecolIections of Joshua—The Tomb of Noah— Taxes and Taxation in the East— The Splendors of the Pilgrimage.
Daily Alta CaliforniaIn Camp, Eight Hours Beyond Damascus1867-09-171867-12-08A Pattern Syrian Village—A Sorry Picture— Something about an Ancient Sport— The Mighty Temple of the Sun—Wonders of Old-Time Engineering— A Cut at Ambitions Nobodies—Magnificent Ruin of a Horse.
Daily Alta CaliforniaBaniasSeptember 18671867-12-15The Oldest City in the World—Paradise— “Beautiful for Situation”—The Gardens of Damascus—Abana and Pharpar— Modern Adaptation of the Story of Naaman—The Horrors of Leprosy.
Daily Alta CaliforniaBaniasSeptember 18671867-12-22In Damascus—Unexpected Comforts—Street Scenes—The Story of Paul—The House and Well of Ananias — Other Damascene Lions—”Christian Dogs”— Turkish Ingratitude.
Daily Alta CaliforniaBaniasSeptember 18671867-12-29The Pains of Travel—The Umbrella Nuisance—A Novel Caravan—Jonesborough in the Desert and El Yuba Dam—A Stately Ruin—On the Borders of Holy Land—Vandalic Relic Hunters
New York TribuneBaldwinsville, GalileeSeptember 18671867-11-09First Day in Palestine
Daily Alta CaliforniaWilliamsburgh, Canaan, (Ain-Mellahah)September 18671868-01-05“From Dan to Beersheba”—The Sources of the Jordan—Ancient Filibusters—The Roman Colossus of Roads—Glimpses of Oriental Life—A Naked Treeless Land—Descendants of the Patriarchs.
Daily Alta CaliforniaWilliamsburgh, Palestine, (Ain-Mellahah)September 18671868-01-12The Waters of Merom—Ancient Battles—An Old Prophecy Fulfilled—Ancient Story Modernized—A Dramatic Chapter with a Thrilling Denouement—Etc.
Daily Alta CaliforniaCapernaumSeptember 18671868-01-19Tiberia and Tahoe—An Accursed Land—Agricultural Capabilities of Palestine—Its Smallness—A Sacred Locality.
Daily Alta CaliforniaTiberiasSeptember 18671868-01-26At the Sea of Galilee—Enthusiasm of the Pilgrims—A Bitter Disappointment—Fine Arts and Magdalen—Syrian Architecture—Extraordinary Reception of the Pilgrims—Mary Magdalen’s House.
Daily Alta CaliforniaNazarethSeptember 18671868-02-02Determined to be “Enthused”—An Arab Militiaman—A Novel Source of Revenue—Famous Localities—A Crusader’s Battlefield— Historical Reminiscences.
Daily Alta CaliforniaNazarethSeptember 18671868-02-09A View from Moitut Tabor—The Plain of Esdraelon—An Old Story Modernized—The Palestine of To-day— A Bit of a Moral.
Daily Alta CaliforniaNazarethSeptember 18671868-02-16Travelling in Palestine — Arabs and Israelites— Nazareth and its Holy Places— Grottoes and Monkish Legends—Convenient Faith.
Daily Alta CaliforniaAt Large in PalestineSeptember 18671868-02-26The Arabs of the Desert—The Home of Jezebel—Story of Jezreel—Gideon’s Band—History of the Same—ln Samaria.
Daily Alta CaliforniaJerusalemSeptember 18671868-03-01First Families—Joseph’s Tomb—The Well of Shechem—Camping— The Ladder of Jacob—Sacred Places—Accomplishment of the Pilgrimage—Jerusalem, at Last.
Daily Alta CaliforniaJerusalemSeptember 18671868-03-08Jerusalem—A Knobby City—The Holy Place—The Story of the True Cross—The Sword of Bouillon.
Daily Alta CaliforniaJerusalemSeptember 18671868-03-15Traditional Holy Places—At the Centre of the Earth— The Dust of Adam—Curious Relics—A Noted Relic-Hunter—Myths and Mysteries.
Daily Alta CaliforniaJerusalemSeptember 18671868-03-22Among the Chapels—Sacred Places—Traditions and Inventions—The Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Daily Alta CaliforniaJerusalemSeptember 18671868-03-29The Sorrowful Way— St. Veronica’s Handkerchief— Sacred Places—Where the Wandering Jew Started From—Some of His Wanderings—The Temple of Solomon—Mahommedan Superstitions,
Daily Alta CaliforniaJerusalemSeptember 18671868-05-17The Hard Road of Jordan—At the Dead Sea—More Disappointments—A Funny Bath—Bethlehem and its Sacred Places—The Discomfort of Eastern Travel.
Daily Alta CaliforniaJerusalemSeptember 18671868-04-05A Forbidding Picture—A Model Travelling Library—Sundry Exploded Delusions—On the Jordan Road.
Daily Alta CaliforniaJerusalemSeptember 18671868-04-12The Great Temple—The Stones of Jerusalem—Surfeited Tourists—“Twain” Blase— A Crowd of Notable Places.
Daily Alta CaliforniaJerusalemSeptember 18671868-04-26Dyspeptic Sight-Seers—Local Disturbances—Some New Points about Lazarus—A Bedouin Raid—Ancient Jericho.
New York HeraldNew York1867-11-191867-11-20The Cruise of the Quaker City
Daily Alta CaliforniaNew York1867-11-201868-01-08Home Again—Disembarkation of the Pilgrims—A Motley Crew—Review of the Trip—What Might have Been—A Model Pleasure Excursion—Passenger List Extraordinary.

Most of the letter publication dates were initially sourced from Daniel Morley McKeithan’s Traveling with the Innocents Abroad (1958), then the information was supplemented with additional information, such as the sub-titles, and the links to the articles online added. Some articles, such as the pre-trip articles, were located in our own searches.


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